As part of Seattle's public arts program, The Seattle Arts Commission installed "Hammering Man' on Sept. 12, 1992, at the entrance to the Robert Venturi-designed Seattle Art Museum at First Avenue and University Street.
CNS photos courtesy of Tim Thompson
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The citizens of this gleaming green city become miffed when national polls continue to rank Seattle as one of the top 10 U.S. cities in which to live. Getting a perverse pleasure in their ubiquitous rainfall, Seattleites are hoping that the visitors' desire to settle in the area will be dampened by their soggy climate.
What other American city can boast of metal and glass skyscrapers dwarfed by the craggy Cascade Mountains to the east and the majestic Olympic range to the west. Downtown Seattle, with its hills as steep as San Francisco's, is a shimmering isthmus bordered by Lake Washington, Lake Union and Elliott Bay. And where else can folks live on forest-covered islands that dot Puget Sound and commute to work on ferries?
I love this place even in the winter when there is mostly drizzle and it starts getting dark at 3:30 p.m. And everywhere I enter to get out of the rain exudes a glowing coziness reflecting Seattle's warm offseason hospitality. Since it doesn't get extremely cold, I did fine on a recent November trip with an umbrella and waterproof coat. All of that moisture on the evergreen foliage lets me count as many shades of green in Seattle as there are in Ireland.
Locals favor casual dress, are extremely literate (Seattleites acquire the largest percentage of library cards, and the city has the nation's highest number of bookstores) and are helpful to the point of literally leading me to my downtown destination. Meanwhile, they have gifted our country with the tall, skinny latte, hand-crafted beer, some astounding wine and much of our computer software.
Architecturally, Seattle has a brilliant mix of traditional and futuristic buildings. Opened two years ago, the stunning central library was designed by the award-winning Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. From inside, I felt that the see-through building with its 11 floors of diamond-shaped glass almost seemed to float.
I also enjoyed visiting the Frank Gehry-designed rock 'n' roll museum called the Experience Music Project, which is an immense, multicolored and controversial globule across from the Space Needle and given to Seattle by Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen. Allow about two hours to explore the history of American popular music, and don't miss the special exhibit on Jimi Hendrix. Also underwritten by Paul Allen is the adjacent Science Fiction Museum, which contains a stellar collection of props, costumes and icons from classic science fiction movies and television shows along with fantastic historic posters.
Since the Seattle Art Museum is expanding and closed until late spring, I went up to the Capitol Hill district to visit the Seattle Asian Art Museum in Volunteer Park. The Japanese collection here is among the most distinguished outside Japan, and I like the tea garden on the lower level offering exotic teas and snacks. If the rain is especially light, I suggest walking back to downtown Seattle (it's all flat or downhill) along 14th Avenue, where you'll see some of the city's early mansions.
Downtown Seattle, with its hills as steep as San Francisco's, is a shimmering isthmus bordered by Lake Washington, Lake Union and Elliott Bay. Shown is a spectacular view of the Bell Harbor Marina, with the Seattle skyline as a backdrop..
CNS Photo courtesy of Tim Thompson
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Culture is taken seriously in this portion of the Pacific Northwest, as attested by Benaroya Hall, the sumptuous music center for the Seattle Symphony. The 2,500-seat main auditorium has the best acoustics I've experienced in my concert-going memory, and there's also a smaller recital hall for chamber concerts and pop performers.
The 80-year-old Fifth Avenue Theatre, which opened as a vaudeville house, now presents Broadway shows. As much as I enjoyed a performance of Stephen Sondheim's "Company," I was mesmerized by this venerable theater's decor, a re-creation of Peking's imperial throne hall.
I can never leave Seattle without wandering through the granddaddy of all farmers markets, the covered Pike Place Market, which was founded in 1907 and has become a National Historic District. As I meandered through the fish, produce and flower stands, I also realized how many more artists and craftspeople were selling original works. Amid the nine acres of vendors, there are also restaurants, bars and coffee shops, along with street musicians entertaining the crowds.
With one last caffe latte, I toasted this unique city, which can be savored rain or shine.
— Copley News Service
IF YOU GO
I stayed at the futuristic Hotel 1000 (1000 First Ave., 206-957-1000, www.hotel1000seattle.com), which is a short walk from Pike Place Market and fine downtown restaurants. Befitting Seattle, the sleek rooms have 40-inch flat-screen TVs that double as a computer screen, downy bed comforters and a glorious soaking tub that fills from the ceiling.
There's also a cozy fire-pit lounge for breakfast and cocktails, a gourmet restaurant and bar, a full-service spa and virtual-reality golf.
The Dahlia Lounge (2001 Fourth Ave., 206-682-4142, www.tomdouglas.com) has outstanding northwest and Asian specialties. Start with the perfect crab cakes, try the spice-rubbed salmon and have feathery doughnuts for dessert.
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